USING THIS APPARATUS, WE WERE ABLE TO DRAW OUR TRANSITION. MORE OR LESS BY TRIAL AND ERROR, WE FOUND A CENTER POINT FOR A RADIUS THAT WHEN PIVOTED, CREATED A CURVE THAT JOINED THE PLATFORM LEDGE WITH A SMOOTH TRANSITION TO FLAT. TO DO THIS, USE SOMETHING LONG AND STRAIGHT TO CREATE A RADIUS. THIRDLY, DRAW THE CURVED LINE THAT YOU’LL CUT TO MAKE THE TRANSITION.WE OPTED TO LAY OUR 2X4’S FLAT, SO WE DREW THIS LINE 2” FROM THE EDGE. NEXT, DRAW A LINE ACROSS THE BOTTOM TO REPRESENT THE BASE, OR FLAT PART, OF THE RAMP. THIS WILL NEED TO BE AS TALL AS A 2X4 SO THAT THE FRAME CAN PROP THE BOTTOM.WE GAVE OURSELVES A PLATFORM OF TWO FEET. THIS WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO CUT THE REST. TO DO IT OUR WAY DRAW A LINE DOWN THE CENTER OF THE PLYWOOD SHEET AND MAKE THE CUT. THIS IS ONE OF THE MORE DIFFICULT PARTS OF THE PROCESS. START BY MEASURING AND DRAWING YOUR TRANSITION.Super important for the way the ramp feels and what type of plywood sheeting you use to cover it. Like I said, we used 1 sheet of ¾ plywood for our transition templates because we went for a smaller, more compact mini and well, we’re cheap. STEP 3 – THE BUILD: MAKING THE TRANSITION We pulled it off using this stuff and didn't waste a whole lot of material. It’d be nice to have an actual sawhorse, a square, and a real level, but this is pretty much all you'll need! We'll get to the different options for materials later. This is pretty much the bare minimum supplies you’re going to need.
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